Southern-inspired fare Southern-inspired fare (August 10, 2001)

A new chef offers engaging side dishes at the Blue Chalk Cafe

by Dale F. Bentson

My first experience at the Blue Chalk Cafe was on a Thursday evening around 8 p.m. I was looking forward to trying new chef Sunny Fernandes' creative bill of fare, which, I had heard, has a decidedly Southern influence updated to suit our modern West Coast palates.

But upon opening the door to the restaurant I was nearly blown half way across Ramona Street by the incredible din that assaulted my aging ears. Housed in a 1927 building designed by Birge Clark, Blue Chalk Cafe is an animated fun house with activities swirling about everywhere. It's a young and casual professional crowd here -- a boys' club with lots of girls. Billiard tables, shuffleboard, darts and a fun British game called birkball anchor about half of the spacious facility. On Saturday evenings at 9 p.m. a DJ mixes and dishes "in house" music.

The architecture in the 9-year-old cafÈ is reminiscent of the Vieux CarrÈ in New Orleans -- the Southern part, not the French part. Mix in an English-style pub that has just been reinstalled after a four-year absence, and the result is a jumble. Southern-inspired flavors with billiards tables, but not the kind of juke joint where Fast Eddie Felson would ever be found hustling the likes of Minnesota Fats.

There are two full bars here: a cozy English pub downstairs, and a raucous upstairs bar with sports droning on a large-screen TV. The central interior opens to a huge skylight, allowing for the clamor from both floors to bounce all around. From 5 until 11:30 p.m. daily, a new bar menu offers choices of burgers, sandwiches, fries and onion rings along with a half dozen new drinks, including a "Classic Cosmopolitan" and "The Big Easy Martini."

They serve other food here too amongst this potpourri of animation. Because of the noise, we ordered from the menu by pointing at our selections. For starters, we chose fried calamari ($6.75) with green tomatoes. The accompanying okra, with spicy aioli, was crisp and fresh-tasting although the garlic in the aioli was nearly invisible. Steamed mussels ($6.95) in white wine, garlic, tomatoes and basil was satisfactory if nondescript.

Pecan-crusted crabmeat cheesecake ($8.95) with sour cream and tomato coulis (pureed tomato with tomato chunks) was one of the weirder first courses I have encountered. It really was a warm cheesecake, it really was a first course and it really was strange. An intriguing idea but rather incongruous.

On another visit we started with a satisfying warm spinach and artichoke dip ($6.25), served with tortilla chips, which was almost a meal in itself, and plenty to share. Spicy chicken skewers ($6.95) topped with house-made chipotle BBQ sauce was a favorite at our table. The chicken was plump and moist and the smoky sauce coated just enough to taste but not overwhelm.

On a relatively quieter Wednesday night the wait person was able to go into much detail about daily specials (since he didn't have to shout) and answered all questions pertaining to the menu. I was impressed with his thorough knowledge of even the wine list.

But generally the wait staff and kitchen were out of synch. On several occasions we were not finished with our first course when entrees arrived. The servers tried to grab our plates and replace them with the next course while fork was still passing from plate to mouth. This quandary frustrated the servers and annoyed the diners. More coordination and a little less rush would be appreciated.

Jambalaya ($14.95) is the signature dish at Blue Chalk, according to General Manager James Meadows. Similar to Spanish paella, the term "jambalaya" is derived from the Spanish jamÛn for ham. Jambalaya found its way into Creole cooking in the late 1700s, taking on the flavor of added local ingredients. At Blue Chalk it is made with chicken, shrimp, ham, Andouille sausage, peppers, tomatoes and scallions in a light Creole sauce. Their version is very good, albeit ever so tame. One server told me every time the kitchen serves something even moderately spicy they get complaints. That is why there is hot sauce on every table. Too bad, because with a touch of heat this dish would excel.

Blackened salmon ($17.95) with Cajun spices and portobello mushrooms featured a delicious filet of properly blackened salmon, moist and flaky, cooked perfectly to my request. But the bed of smoked pasta made the dish heavy. The rice served with Nawlins barbecue shrimp (18.95) would have worked better. That dish featured jumbo prawns in a mouthwatering buttery and piquant Creole-seasoned BBQ sauce, which were completely overshadowed by the delicious rice that accompanied the food.

Garlicky baked vegetables ($13.95) tossed in olive oil, garlic and herbs and baked with parmesan cheese was served vegetarian lasagna-style but was bland and overloaded with cheese. The delightful spoon bread paired with it was more memorable than the main dish itself. Too bad it's not offered as a separate side dish.

Baked catfish ($16.95), stuffed with Creole-herbed crabmeat and shrimp, served with corn muffins and green beans, met with mixed reviews. While the stuffing was tasty the catfish had no flavor at all. Green beans were overcooked, but the corn muffins were wonderful, flaky and light as a sigh.

Dessert sizes were more than generous. Delectable Bourbon St. pecan pie a la mode ($4.95), served warm, was studded with pecans but had a pliant rather than flaky crust. Kahlua mud cake with ice cream ($5.95) was nothing more than a giant serving of brownies and what tasted like store-bought ice cream, flavored with Kahlua. Banana pudding ($4.50) was silky and loaded with sliced bananas, but ground vanilla cookies crumbed over the top actually deterred from the overall taste. Red Velvet Cake ($4.50) was nontraditional -- white angel food cake with strawberry purÈe. Traditional New Orleans red velvet cake is made with red food coloring, turning the cake itself blood-red. And it is covered with chocolate frosting.

Blue Chalk's lunch menu offered several dishes not available at dinner. Mom's old-fashioned meatloaf ($7.95) with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, mushroom gravy and green beans was hearty fare. The meatloaf was tasty and satisfying, but garlic mashed potatoes were dry and the green beans overcooked and limp.

At a quiet and late lunch one afternoon, shrimp and crabcakes ($8.95 lunch; $8.75 dinner) with green tomato relish and remoulade were loaded with bread crumbs. Because of that the cakes absorbed too much oil while sautÈing. The result -- leaden cakes tasting more like oil and bread than seafood. And BLT salad ($5.95) was so drenched in a Maytag blue-cheese dressing that no other flavor could compete.

Smoked-salmon sandwich ($11.95) with organic greens, garlic mashed potatoes and honey mustard dressing featured a flaky, well prepared fillet of salmon on a toasted baguette. The greens were fine but the same dry mashed potatoes detracted from the overall plate.

Blue Chalk's wine list is adequate and fairly priced but uninspiring. Five whites and three reds are offered by the glass. Highlights were Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay ($7) and Penfolds Australian Cabernet/Shiraz ($7.50). Bottle selections represent California, Australian and New Zealand wineries. Sonoma Cutrer Russian River Chardonnay ($30), Benziger Pinot Noir ($35) and Kim Crawford New Zealand Merlot ($37) are reasonable buys. Curiously, there is nary a bottle from Europe.

The Blue Chalk Cafe also presents a few creative drinks and libations, and offers a half-dozen labels of suddenly fashionable single-malt scotch.

Despite the din and chaos, Blue Chalk still manages to work, thanks to a strong management team. Chef Fernandes' menu is engaging and most of the presentation is average or above. I just wish the flavors ignited my taste buds more. And by the way, if you are over 30. bring earplugs.

Blue Chalk CafÈ, 630 Ramona St. Palo Alto, (650) 326-1020, www.bluechalk.citysearch.com

Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Mon.-Sat. 5-10 p.m. Bar menu Mon.-Sat. 5-11:30 p.m.

Atmosphere: Two-story restaurant has two bars, a pool hall and outdoor patio, all centered around an atrium - an eclectic mix which accounts for its New Orleans feel. The cafe attracts a young and casually clad crowd - and it is certainly frenetic, with a multitude of activities colliding simultaneously.

Highlights: Generous portions of Southern and Big Easy cuisine, with some interesting new combinations, thanks to Chef Sunny Fernandes who recently came aboard. The wine list is adequate, fairly priced but uninspiring. Stick to mixed-bar drinks, including a "Classic Cosmopolitan" and "The Big Easy Martini." Start off with spicy chicken skewers or spinach and artichoke dip, and work your way through jambalaya, barbecued shrimp and blacked salmon. Then finish with Kahlua mud pie or banana pudding. A new bar menu offers munchies until 11:30 p.m., great for late night repasts.
Reservations: Yes Credit cards: Yes Parking: No Full bar: Yes Noise level:Disquieting blare - very high Wheelchair access: Yes Takeout: Yes Banquet: Yes Highchairs:Yes Catering: Yes Outdoor seating:Yes
Have a tasty tidbit or comment? Contact Food Editor Mary Orlin at (650) 326-8210, ext. 312 or email morlin@paweekly.com.