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Palo Alto Online

Another link in the Chang

by Kelsey Lane

Think Houlihan's, TGI Friday's or Chili's. Then bump it up a couple of decades into the new millennium. Add dramatic Asian touches, a Chinese-American fusion menu, and voila: You have our nation's trendy new concept restaurant chain.

At the end of April, Palo Alto became home to the newest P.F. Chang's China Bistro, the 66th to be exact. The restaurant began in Arizona in 1993 and spread across the country.

Apparently, there was pent-up demand in Palo Alto, even though there's a Chang's in Sunnyvale. Two months after opening, the Stanford Shopping Center (Quarry Road and El Camino Real) location is still packed, with long waits on weekend evenings.

I first visited on a Saturday night, arriving at 6:30 p.m. My party of four was quoted a one-hour wait. So we went to Pottery Barn and returned an hour later. "Oh, it will be 15 more minutes," the hosts said. Then we checked back in later. "Oh, it will be another 15 minutes." I was growing weary -- and wary.

While waiting, we had plenty of time to check out the modern, 250-seat space, replete with reds, blacks and natural woods. A hand-painted mural depicting 12th-century China adorns one wall. Sculptures designed to mimic Chinese artifacts, such as warriors and horses, are Chang's signature dÈcor chain-wide.

After waiting a total of one hour and 45 minutes, our table was ready. Not having eaten yet, our waiter's flip humor was lost on us. While telling stories, he concocted his "special sauce," a tradition at Chang's, which entails mixing from all the bottles at the table into a ramekin -- rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, hot chile oil, garlic-chile sauce and hot mustard -- customized to your preferred degree of heat.

Every server will tell you this sauce is designed to accompany the lettuce wraps appetizer. Translation: "We want you to order the lettuce wraps."

Of course, you're not obligated, but it's a wise move. They are fantastic. You can order either chicken or vegetarian; both come with iceberg lettuce as the wrap. Our ground chicken, in a savory sauce, had a pleasing undertone of shiitake mushrooms. One dab of the server's special sauce and we were on our way ($6.50/$6.25; two can share or four can taste).

Other starters sampled over a succession of visits were equally thrilling. Crab wontons (a.k.a. crab Rangoon) were crunchy with a creamy inside, served with spicy-sweet plum sauce ($5.95 for five). Four crispy harvest spring rolls, with that same delightful hint of shiitake mushrooms, come in an order, cut in half to make eight ($4.50).

Salt-and-pepper calamari were unique ($6.95). Instead of calamari rings, strips were cut lengthwise from the fillet and then lightly battered and fried. Salt and pepper for sprinkling was included on the platter in a small finger bowl. These tender beauties tasted better with the server's special sauce than with their own nondescript sauce.

The tasty peanut-lime dressing on the peanut-chicken salad made that dish worth trying, and it's enough to share ($7.95).

All dishes are served family-style at Chang's, so plan accordingly to achieve a variety, including some vegetables, noodles and meat dishes. One caveat: Chang's is Americanized Chinese food. Not necessarily a bad thing, but do let me offer some ordering advice.

For entrees, veer away from bland-sounding dishes, because they will be just that. Two examples were the moo goo gai pan (chicken, shrimp, Napa cabbage and other vegetables; $10.95) and the Cantonese scallops with snow peas ($12.25), which both lacked any discernable flavor. This is not the place to order something delicate, thinking it will be prepared with the care taken in an upscale, four-star establishment.

Instead, gravitate toward spicy, rich and/or fried menu items. For instance, the orange peel chicken was to-die-for. Battered and fried chicken breast pieces were tossed with chiles and orange peel in a lip-smacking sauce. Slightly crispy, it was perfect for topping the complementary white or brown rice ($10.95). Another similar standout dish was Chang's spicy chicken, a little tangier than the former ($10.95); this is their rendition of General Chu's chicken (a ubiquitous Chinese dish in the U.S.).

Tender Mongolian beef with garlic and scallions, another typical Chinese-American dish, had us all smiling. The sauce, with a complex depth, was only slightly sweet and mostly dark, rich and thick ($10.95).

One dish to avoid is the spicy ground chicken with eggplant ($8.95). Swimming in a gluey sauce were mere bits -- few and far between -- of chicken, next to large mushy sections of overcooked eggplant. My companion and I hardly touched it.

For side dishes, consider Singapore street noodles ($8.95) or coconut-curry vegetables ($6.95). The former featured rice-stick noodles tossed in a tangy-spicy curry sauce, chock full of vegetables and fried shrimp and chicken pieces. The latter combined silken tofu with stir-fried vegetables and peanuts (yum) in a thick curry sauce.

The only Asian-themed dessert offered is the banana spring rolls. The portion allows for four to get a small taste, and it comes with pineapple-coconut ice cream ($3.95).

The wine list is surprisingly robust for a Chinese restaurant, offering a high number of wines by the glass. Beers such as Tsing Tao are also available. Plan on spending at least $40 for two people, with drinks included.

We did not have to wait for a table on our second and third visits, a Monday lunch and a 5:30 p.m. Saturday dinner, respectively. I advise to go early or during atypical dining times. You can also call ahead to the host stand to have them add your name to the waiting list.

Service was often slow at P.F. Chang's. The first visit, with our storytelling waiter, ended in him all but abandoning our table. Then on a lunch visit, the meal took two hours -- unacceptable for a business lunch. During the last visit, our server was attentive and efficient, though a little over-the-top with funny stories and jokes.

Then he brought eight fortune cookies to the table for four people. I also found this very American -- meaning, more is always better.

"How do I know which one is destined for me?" I asked him.

With his palms pressed together as he bowed, he replied in his best Confucious voice: "Lady who take bad fortune must take 'nother damn cookie."

P.F. Chang's China Bistro, 180 El Camino Real (Stanford Shopping Center), Palo Alto (650) 330-1782, www.pfchangs.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.-Thu.; 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat.

Atmosphere: Houlihans-meets-12th century China, with a hand-painted mural depicting old-fashioned Asian scenes. The ambience goes all out, like any theme park --oops I mean theme restaurant -- should. Sculptures of horses, warriors and the like are designed to emulate Chinese artifacts.

Highlights: If you can stomach the sometimes-long wait, try the chicken in lettuce wraps (or vegetarian version) as an appetizer ($6.50/$6.25). Starters in general get high marks. Don't miss the orange peel chicken ($10.95) or the Mongolian beef ($10.95). Hopefully your group is large, so you'll have room to order the unique Singapore street noodles ($8.95) or perhaps the coconut-curry vegetables ($6.95). All dishes served family style.
Reservations: No Credit Cards: Yes Valet Parking: No Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair Access: Yes Banquet: No Outdoor seating: Yes Noise Level: High Bathroom cleanliness: Average